Is there a region more complex than Burgundy? Inspired by a recent evening paying homage to the noble Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, we’re examining this week how to understand Burgundy’s mosaic of terroirs, unravelling its classification system, and offering some tricks of the trade in choosing Burgundy well.
Terroir first
In Burgundy, it is the vineyards that are classified, rather than the producer or an estate (as is the case in Bordeaux). There are four levels of quality: Regional (Bourgogne Rouge or Blanc), Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. Wines are named by their geographical location (e.g. “Gevrey-Chambertin”), and can also carry the name of a “climat” – a specific parcel of vines, if all grapes used hail from this parcel (e.g. “Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques”).
Depending on how well you know your geography, you can cheat the system in pursuit of value for drinking by buying adjacent to highly respected Grand Cru or Premier Cru parcels.
Power in producer
Equally important is the winemaker. While potential for excellence is still defined by terroir, the hand that guides the grapes to their eventual expression is a key quality indicator. Producers who have expertise in making wines from prestigious Grand Cru vineyards may also make Village-level wines, invariably with the same care and knowhow.
While these wines may not always prove as complex or longlived, they provide a valuable entry point to Burgundy, and a viable drinking option while waiting for the Premiers and Grands Crus treasures to reach maturity.
Access advantage
Burgundy prices have surged in recent years due to tiny production volumes and increasing demand. The number one limitation to collecting and enjoying Burgundy successfully is access. Direct allocations are extremely difficult to acquire, let alone considering the issue of collection, transport, and storage of the precious bottles in optimum conditions*.
Given the high price tags on many of these wines, sourcing in the secondary market without proof of perfect provenance is simply not worth the risk. There are no true shortcuts to enjoying Burgundy over time, but the region’s burgeoning balloon of demand is surely testament to the immense reward for those willing to put in the effort.
*if you have existing direct allocations from Burgundy producers and are seeking storage or traceability solutions, please contact us.